N|Watch – DIY Wristwatch Kit

Orders now closed!

See [this] for more info about the watch.

There probably won’t be a batch #3, but if I do decide to do another batch then subscribe here to be notified about it.

Batch #2 progress: Completed



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    • Sagar Chakraborty on March 22, 2014 at 1:21 pm
    • Reply

    Ordered!! May be the 1st one to do so. Can’t wait to have it in my hand. Just a suggestion why don’t you look at a 3D printed enclosed for the watch.

    1. Nice 😀 I’ll probably add an enclosure if I do a new version, no idea when that will be though.

        • Kevin on July 29, 2015 at 9:26 am
        • Reply

        Hey zak i was wondering once i buy all the parts how would i be able to make it ?could you please add a instructions how to do?

        1. That probably depends on your soldering skills, have you done surface mount components before? Here’s some tips on assembling – https://github.com/zkemble/NWatch/wiki/Assembling You’ll also probably want to have a look at the PCB/schematic design to make sure you get things in the right place – https://github.com/zkemble/NWatch/tree/master/hardware/watch/1.4

    • punkiepunkie on March 24, 2014 at 8:13 pm
    • Reply

    Hello Zak,
    great project and thanks for sharing it 🙂

    I don’t want to miss out but am not sure if I’m up to hand soldering some of the parts.

    To give me some idea, do you hand solder ALL off the parts, or are you using something else, for example a reflow oven?

    I ask because I’m not sure if I can manage the FPC by hand and I can’t see any external (i.e. not underneath) connections for the LS1 component (making me think the connections are underneath).

    You don’t have a photo of the other side of the PCB, so am not sure about how that would work out either.

    I don’t want to order and then wreck one the first 25 units as I’m sure that there are more capable people than me who want one.



    1. Hi! Everything is hand soldered, I use this iron. The LS1 connections poke out a little bit at the sides. I’ve added some closeup photos, some of the components will be moved around a little bit in PCB v1.3 and R5, 6 and 7 (right side of microcontroller) will also be changed to a single resistor network. I think the hardest part is the microUSB connector, the connections are quite short.

    • ipp on March 24, 2014 at 11:19 pm
    • Reply

    Hej Zak,

    Very Cool Project ! Really like the display and that it is opensource. i think ill order a kit, but before have two more questions.
    The display in the video and pictures looks kind of blueish. but on the partslist link it says that is white. what colour will it be ?
    how hard is it to play aroudn and program it yourself ? I know arduino, but havnt touched the native atmel program ide yet. also would i need some kind of extra programming device ?

    cheers, ipp

    1. Thanks!

      The display is white, but it’s not pure white, it has a very slight bluey-green tinge to it. The videos and pictures tend to exaggerate the blueness of it.

      I’d say it’s easy to modify the program, all the core framework done (rendering, dealing with button presses etc) so adding stuff like a new game is easy.
      To program the watch you will need an ISP programmer like this and a 6 pin adapter.

      It’s also possible to write code for the watch in the Arduino IDE, since the watch microcontroller is the same as in many Arduinos (ATmega328P).

        • ipp on March 25, 2014 at 2:54 am
        • Reply

        i would probably really try to use the arduino IDE. but then i would need to upload the arduino bootloader.
        Is this the way how i would do it if i dont have a ISP programmer ? would this work ?

        oh, and for programming i would also need then an ftdi, right ?

        1. A bootloader and FTDI/usb-serial converter is only required if you want to program over serial (not recommended for the watch). You can use your linked method to program, the ‘Burning the Bootloader’ part can also be used to program the controller, just go to File > Upload using Programmer instead of the Burn Bootloader option.

            • ipp on March 25, 2014 at 1:27 pm

            thanks Zak !
            really looking forward playing around with it.

            i guess you already came across this since someone postet it in the comments, but in case you missed it, here again.
            I dont know if this is only a pictures issue again, but thisone seems also to be really white.


          1. Yeah, that’s where I’m getting the displays from.

        2. Actually, I think it might be best if I add a bootloader to the watch to program it over serial, it’s kinda easy to mess up the fuse bits when programming with an ISP. Also the IO voltage of the watch is 2.5V, which is probably not high enough for a 5V Arduino to read.

            • ipp on March 25, 2014 at 5:11 pm

            you mean only for people who want to use arduino ?
            yes, you would need some levelshifters.

          1. Nah, for everyone. So instead of the programmer and 6 pin things I linked earlier you will need just this. It’s a 3.3V device which will work with the 2.5V IO. I’ll probably include the converter with the watch kit for free. Uploading will the same as uploading to a normal Arduino.

    • Matt on March 25, 2014 at 2:17 am
    • Reply

    I’ve been waiting for you to get the kits together!!! Such an awesome project can’t wait to flex my soldering skills and get my own working!

    • W. Zwiers on March 25, 2014 at 8:43 am
    • Reply

    Awesomeness!, Ordered on 😉

    • Dave on March 25, 2014 at 10:57 am
    • Reply

    Hi Zach, I’m already down for ordering one of your watches but I was thinking of getting a second for my friend’s 21st birthday in September. Do you think you’ll be posting a second batch out by September or should I play it safe and order another right now?


    1. I’d play it safe and order another now, I’ve no idea what I’ll be doing (in terms of personal stuff) once this batch is complete.

        • Dave on March 31, 2014 at 5:03 pm
        • Reply

        Well, presumably you’ll be designing a case then putting it on Kickstarter? 😉 I think this watch serves a niche that remains unfilled by the expensive smart watches out there which cost > £100.

        If you want to fill the last 6 spots, why not submit something to Hackaday? Your efforts to sell the watch in an unassembled form at least warrant a link in the weekly Hackaday links.

        1. Gah, I don’t really want to full Kickstarter and everything :/
          Looks like someone submitted to HaD before me 😛

            • Petr Tosovsky on April 7, 2014 at 10:03 pm

            I didn’t want to wait longer to get my kit (number 18 or 19/25 has been here quite long) so I sent the link as tip to Hack A Day. It seems it worked as it was supposed. 🙂


            • Dave on April 8, 2014 at 11:36 am

            Wonder who that was? 😉

    • ipp on April 5, 2014 at 6:56 pm
    • Reply


    1. Got all orders now since it linked on HackADay 😀

    • Sagar Chakraborty on April 6, 2014 at 3:56 am
    • Reply


    It seems we are stuck at 19 for some time. What is the way forward? Are you going to wait for 25 in that case till how long?

    1. All order are in now, should start shipping in around a month 🙂

    • LK on April 7, 2014 at 7:14 am
    • Reply

    Hi, I’m to late to order a watch, but what would the price have been? Thanks!

    1. Hey, price was £35 for unassembled and £65 for fully assembled. There will probably be enough parts left over for a few more watches. I’ve added a link at the top of the post where you can subscribe to updates etc.

  1. Thanks to HaD I got the last one! Super stoked on this!

    One question, whats “U2” on the board for?

    1. U2 is the RTC, it’s not soldered on since it’s just a test board.

    • Diyan on April 10, 2014 at 4:56 pm
    • Reply

    When you will update firmware, PCB and schematic designs on GitHub?

    1. They’ll be put up when the watches start shipping, which will be in around a month.

      1. Is the updated firmware and PCB design uploaded? link pls

        1. Watches haven’t started shipping just yet, keep an eye on my GitHub, it will named something like ‘NWatch’.

          1. Thanks, Hope you upload very soon

    • Sagar Chakraborty on April 12, 2014 at 8:28 am
    • Reply

    Hey Zak why don’t you include all the hardware that are need to program the watch as because most of us will definitely will be playing with the watch and its code. That way the watch will be DYI friendly.

    1. Yeah, I’ve decided to do that now. The watch will have a bootloader for uploading via serial so I’ll be including a USB-to-serial converter thing.

    • Виталий on April 13, 2014 at 8:12 pm
    • Reply

    здравствуйте Зак прошу вас прислать схему часов и прошивку к ним на русском(месяц ,день недели)или где и что надо поменять для этого (в C я не силен).Спасибо за понимание

    Google translation:
    Hello Zack ask you to send a clock circuit and firmware to them in Russian (month, day of the week), or where and what should be changed for this (in C is not my forte.) Thank you for understanding

    1. Hi, there will be a file called lang.h to put translations in, it should be easy to understand without any C knowledge. However, it doesn’t support Cyrillic so you’ll have to stick with the Latin alphabet, if that’s possible.
      All schematics, firmware etc will be available on GitHub when the watches start shipping in around a month.

  2. Hi,

    are there plans to make a new batch of these? i´d like to see your watch in my handmade wood case…


    1. Possibly, if you subscribe to the mailing list you’ll be notified if I do more batches.

    • Frank on April 17, 2014 at 9:33 pm
    • Reply

    This is great! The only thing it needs is an xbee! 🙂

  3. 我计划用STC15F60S2 来仿制您的手表功能,这个芯片只能支持C,无法支持C++,您的程序我也看不太懂,我只是一个初学者,OLED为SH1106的控制器,时钟芯片暂时用的PCF8563,其他功能再慢慢添加,暂时没有考虑节能,现在已经实现了时钟字符的动态显示,以及开关屏幕的动画。希望通过借鉴您的设计,我能成功!谢谢扎克!!!

    Google translation:
    I plan to use MCU “STC15F60S2” to copy your watch function, this chip can only support C, unable to support the C++, your program I also do not know, I’m just a beginner, OLED for the SH1106 controller, the clock chip with temporary PCF8563, other function and then slowly add, temporary not consider energy conservation, now to achieve the dynamic clock characters of the show, as well as the switch screen animation. Hopes to learn your design, I will be successful! Thank you Zach!!!

    • Bobe on May 4, 2014 at 9:23 pm
    • Reply

    i want the watch batch 2 ?

    1. Subscribe here and you’ll be notified of any updates about batch #2.

    • Dave on May 22, 2014 at 11:36 am
    • Reply

    Hi, how is this coming along? It must have been over a month now since you ordered the batteries and screens etc. Would be nice just to have an update or your guess when it will all arrive. Thanks.

    1. Hey, I think the batteries may have got lost on the post (they should have arrived a few weeks ago), luckily I only ordered 10 instead of 25 in case that happened. Seller said to wait until the end of this week. I’ll order from a different place this weekend so it’s going to be at least another 2-3 weeks before they arrive. :/

        • Dave on May 23, 2014 at 11:42 am
        • Reply

        Cool, thanks for the update. Fingers crossed this time.

  4. Im excited! I hope you get everything soon!

    What are you missing? just the batteries?

    1. Also OLEDs which are in the post, those should arrive next week.

    • Sergey on May 31, 2014 at 9:41 pm
    • Reply

    Dear Zak, and you could provide a new version of PCB and firmware, where can I download them?

    1. The new designs and software will be available on my GitHub when the watches start shipping in a few weeks.

        • Sergey on June 4, 2014 at 6:56 pm
        • Reply

        This is great, just great, I’ll follow, I hope there will also blog archive.
        Sincerely, Sergey

  5. What is the value of the kit?

    1. Unassembled: £35
      Partially assembled (battery not soldered, not taped/glued together): £58
      Fully assembled: £65

      UK: £3
      Everywhere else: £4

    • ryan on June 8, 2014 at 4:20 am
    • Reply

    have you consided using a atmega32u8 instead of a atmega 328 because the 32u8 has usb 2.0 support which means you whont need a usb to serial converter and you can still flash it with the arduino boot loader

    1. Yeah, though I prefer doing a worthwhile upgrade (more flash and RAM etc.), like to an ATxmega128A4U or preferably an ARM controller. It’s something I want to do, but not sure when it’ll be done yet.

        • Dave on June 9, 2014 at 11:35 am
        • Reply

        Wait – how will USB 2.0 mean you don’t have to have a USB to serial converter? Thanks.

        1. If the controller has USB then the bootloader can be coded to read data from USB instead of serial, which means a USB to serial converter is no longer needed.

            • Dave on June 10, 2014 at 1:10 pm

            Ah, I see. For some reason I thought he was emphasising that USB 2.0 had some special feature that USB 1.0 did not have.

    • kathiravan on June 12, 2014 at 5:28 pm
    • Reply

    myself from india add some additional functionalities like radio , bluetooth ,pedometer , like sports related . i dont know if possible add it sir …

    • Ryan on June 22, 2014 at 7:54 am
    • Reply

    Have you made a stencil for the board so you could reflow it

    1. No, I don’t any reflow equipment, though it’s something I’m looking to get at some point.

    • Dave on June 26, 2014 at 10:02 am
    • Reply

    Hi Zac, I got the watch yesterday thanks. I’m assuming the photos at the top of the page will be enough for me to go on. Would a screenshot of the layout help people to solder it?

    I’m not sure if you’ve used any polarised components like diodes/electrolytics.other than the 2 LEDs as I can’t tell any orientations from the photos.

    BTW, you should totally enter this for the Hackaday prize. 🙂

    1. Those photos are a little old, I’ve emailed you some updated stuff.
      The Hackday contest seems to favor projects currently in development, since project logs and updates need to be posted to have a chance of winning anything 🙁

        • Diyan on June 26, 2014 at 10:14 pm
        • Reply

        Zak could you emailed me some update styuff. I am really interested of this project.

        1. Everything is now available here.

    • sahil on June 27, 2014 at 3:17 pm
    • Reply

    hey could u post a clear schematics of the circuit board.

    1. Schematics and everything are now available here.

    • Dave on June 30, 2014 at 10:16 am
    • Reply

    Hi Zac, I’ve just soldered up my board but I’m going to inspect it first with a microscope before the turn on to check for solder short circuits.

    Just a few tips; firstly, I’d suggest if you have the space that you lay out components as evenly as possible and not packed together in the middle. This makes soldering so much easier, plus if you want to modify the board for whatever reason, then that becomes easier too. The resistor networks were a bugger to solder as they’ve been placed so close to the AVR.

    Secondly, I would have used switches and a USB socket that has through-hole metal prongs on it that you can bend over the on the other side of the board. This provides better strain relief than at present where they are just soldered to the copper tracks. There is also a case to be made for using a solderable socket for the OLED screen ribbon, however I understand if you omitted this for cost or just couldn’t find one.

    Could you provide a quick sketch of how you mounted the strap, PCBs, and screen together? I’m thinking of using a sticky pad between LCD and PCB but would be great to have your input on this.

    Lastly, I may have this wrong but the input impedance of the ADC is 100M so you could have done away with the PMOSFETs and just used a resistor network of say 2M without any problems. Would have slightly simplified the design.

    It looks really good though so I can’t wait to turn it on and show it off. 😀

    1. Making the board compact is what I like to do D:

      I don’t know about other PCB fabs, but with the OSHPark boards you’ll probably end up damaging the switches before the PCB traces give out, especially since the front 2 pads of the switches are soldered to the large ground plane. As for the USB connector it seems pretty sturdy to me, but I’ll have to give it a hammer test sometime.
      I couldn’t find any sockets that would fit the OLED ribbon (30 pin, 0.7mm pitch).

      I’ll get some pictures of putting everything together shortly.

      The source impedance for the ADC is meant to be 10K or less since it needs to charge a small capacitor. But I’ll have a look at using some high value resistors and seeing if doing multiple ADC samples and/or adding a 100n capacitor in parallel with one of the resistors works well enough.

    • Sergey on July 1, 2014 at 5:30 pm
    • Reply

    Dear Zak, but why watchPogoSerial scheme for which it is added?

    1. It’s an adapter for programming the watch with pogo pins, I’ll be adding some pictures to this post soon so you’ll be able to see how it’s used.

    • Petr Tosovsky on July 2, 2014 at 4:32 pm
    • Reply

    Are all kits on the way already? I am waiting for mine.


    1. Kind of, a few were sent then I realized there was a slight issue with some holes being too small on the programming PCB, so at the moment I’m waiting for new PCBs to arrive. Your kit is the next one to be sent, though.

        • Petr Tosovsky on July 4, 2014 at 10:01 am
        • Reply

        OK, thanks for fixing the board.


    • Sergey on July 2, 2014 at 8:00 pm
    • Reply

    Hope and uncheck video and show how the new firmware version.

    • Sergey on July 6, 2014 at 12:53 pm
    • Reply

    Good day ZAK. look at the photo and the scheme but there are differences in the scheme have RN1, RN2, RN3. The photo is not what is seen RN3 ratings?

    and another question whether you purchase the entire set of parts but no charge, I will do it myself and how much will it cost and delivery to Ukraine possible?

    1. Hey, I’ve updated the post with newer images. A kit is £35 (711UAH), delivery is £4 (81UAH). However you will have to wait for the next batch before you can order.

    • W. Zwiers on July 8, 2014 at 1:27 pm
    • Reply

    Awesome, hope a have a package in the mail soon 😉

    • Sergey on July 12, 2014 at 10:40 pm
    • Reply

    Zac and tell what program you wrote the code, I want to edit it that would have been Russian inscriptions such as date, weekday menu navigation, etc.
    I tried to open in Atmel Studio and CodeVisionAVR Evaluation But without success.

    1. You should be able to open it in Atmel Studio 6.0 or newer. What error messages does it say?

    • Sergey on July 13, 2014 at 5:50 pm
    • Reply

    I open the project in Atmel Studio 6.1 I then displays a window

    “One or more projects in the solution were not loaded correctly. Please see the Output Windows for details”

    But basically I can see to edit the main thing that could compile a file. I understand everything you need to edit firmware
    \ src \ watch \ includes \ lang \ english.h
    But there is another question I can write everything in Russian but only Latin letters, whether in the future the Russian language?
    And there’s even a picture is responsible for “Time and day of next alarm” where it which file to edit ****. H and how to put there?

    1. What does the output window say? Also try Atmel Studio 6.2
      I might have a look at adding Cyrillic, but it’s going to be very low down on the things to do.
      Images are in resources.c, the one you are after is dowImg.

        • Sergey on July 14, 2014 at 7:55 pm
        • Reply

        Zak thanks figured out, I will continue to understand I saw you’ve added a lot of features in the new version, waiting for when you take them on video and show. 🙂

        1. It’s mainly fixes and code improvements, not really anything that a video will show.

    • Milabs on July 15, 2014 at 11:20 am
    • Reply


    Nice work. And, thank you for your sharing for free.

    It’d, however, be really a good-looking prototype to evaluate the future of smart watch if it can be combined with wireless low power technology like bluetooth 4.0 (bluetooth smart) so as to directly interact with smartphones out there via bluetooth. Let’s say, make a call over smart watch to smartphone. So, are there any plans for that functionality in mind around the prototype you already made?

    Additionally, after reading through your whole blog, I found that there is something interesting out there, like Bluetooth Net Monitor, which is pretty cool. But, it’s a little bit pity that I never found out exactly what chipset or module for bluetooth as well as specs for it is harnessed in the net monitor project. Just curious, why don’t you bring the bluetooth module in to wristwatch in order to make it turn into a real smart watch. So, any more about that?

    Thanks a lot. ^^

    1. Thanks 😀
      Adding bluetooth is on the things to do, but no idea when it’ll be done yet.
      The bluetooth module in the net monitor is a cheap Chinese module and it’s only BT 2.1. It also fills up pretty much all of the watch PCB space so I’ll need to find a much smaller BT 4.0 module that can still be soldered by hand.

        • Milabs on July 23, 2014 at 10:47 am
        • Reply

        plus, looks like nRF8001 from nordic gets to suffice smartwatch as discussed above, huh?

          • Milabs on July 23, 2014 at 11:07 am
          • Reply

          or, another option from IT, which is called CC2541?

          1. Those are QFN packages, kind of difficult to solder by hand, I was hoping for more of a pre-made module.

        • Milabs on July 30, 2014 at 9:32 am
        • Reply

        zak, these posts posted by me around here have been postponed to the next five days when coming up in your blog. So, I created a channel on irc.freenode.net back couple days only for the convenience of communicating with each other if you would like to play around with something like smartwatch, which is named #smartwatch.

        you guys, looks forward to your joining. ^^

        thanks a lot.

        1. I don’t really use IRC, email might be better – blog@zakkemble.co.uk

    • vpapanik on July 27, 2014 at 9:21 am
    • Reply

    this is the smallest one available. I can send you one if you like 🙂


    1. Looks good, shoot me an email blog@zakkemble.co.uk

      1. Check 🙂

        • W. Zwiers on September 23, 2014 at 4:40 pm
        • Reply

        Perhaps, if you want to go for ARM: nRF51422

        1. It’s a good chip, but it’s QFN, not really very easy to solder by hand :/

    • ryan on July 30, 2014 at 6:10 am
    • Reply

    whould it be possable to have a eta of the kit
    i think i brought 14

    1. Yours should be posted in 1 – 2 weeks.

    • Petr Tosovsky on August 2, 2014 at 1:08 pm
    • Reply

    I received my kit at Thursday. I started working on them today and it was done in 2 hours. It is very well prepared for assembly. Everything is marked by number from BOM. Footprints are well done for manual soldering. The rest of assembly (programming pogo connector – btw very good idea to use pointed and round pogo pins this way) can be done by following pictures from this site (thanks for them). Hence the microcontroller is preprogrammed it was not necessary to bother with loading of HEX file. Board booted up on first try!
    Charging is also working immediatelly without any setup.
    I am still fascinated by the software, all the functions, animations, responsivenes … I only have trouble with switching of meaning of the top and the left button in horizontal and vertical lists. And it took me a while to find the number in bottom left corner is FPS indicator.
    Thanks for this amazing watch project. I am glad I have one of them at home.
    I wanna try to create enclosure but I don’t have 3D printer so it will take some time to tweak it to the perfection it deserves.


    1. Awesome! If you do make an enclosure be sure to post it here 😀

        • Petr Tosovsky on August 8, 2014 at 4:13 pm
        • Reply

        The 3D printed case is ready. I created model of NWatch assembly and then I built case with minimal dimension around it. Pictures and 3D models data are here.
        The 3D model of NWatch can be used for easier start of other case designs.
        My case was printed by Sculpteo. The first version has some small issues which were fixed in the models in V3 but I don’t plan to check them by repeating of the printing. I was able to fix original printed version. I believe they are ok now. No need for additional modification.
        The case was printed in black polished plastic. Price was 30 EUR including express shipping (there is no other shipping available on Sculpteo). I was printed and delivered (from France to Czech Republic) in 5 days total. Quality is great. The walls are a bit flexible but it is rigit enough to protect the PCB. It can be ordered here


        1. Wow! That looks great! Might have to order a case for myself 😀

          • Ryan on August 16, 2014 at 12:52 am
          • Reply

          Thanks the cover looks gret ill be ordering one soon

    • gareth on August 3, 2014 at 2:44 pm
    • Reply

    Hi Zak,

    Any plans on a second batch? Really want one of these bad – boys!



    1. I’ll probably start a second batch later this month, stay tuned!

        • Frank Versloot on August 13, 2014 at 11:39 am
        • Reply

        don’t forget to invite to the second batch

        1. I see you’re subscribed to the newsletter, you should get an email about the 2nd batch in a week or 2.

    • Balázs Oláh on August 13, 2014 at 7:41 pm
    • Reply

    Hi! Have u posted all unassembled ones? Haven’t got mine yet :S

    1. Not yet, yours will probably be posted by the end of this week.

    • John on August 24, 2014 at 2:41 am
    • Reply

    Hi Zak, i just subscribed. Will i be getting an email soon about the 2nd batch of order or should i do it now?

    1. Hey, you’ll probably get an email later this week about batch #2.

  6. how do i get kit for this watch? and i love that watch so much i aways dreamed kind of your watch

  7. hi zak i subscribed and how can i get the kit?

    1. Thanks for subscribing, you should get an email in the next week or so with info about ordering a kit from batch #2.

  8. thanks

    • Ruben on September 4, 2014 at 8:05 pm
    • Reply

    Ordered! Maybe the best wrist watch ever designed. I really like your blog. Fan of DIY when I have free time. It is why I have ordered it mounted. I hope to receive it soon. Good luck with your project. Greetings from Spain.

    1. Awesome, thanks 😀

  9. Hi,

    just ordered one of the second Batch. any timeline for this?

    thanks, markus

    1. Orders will be stopped next Wednesday and I’ll get things sorted and ordered then. Should be done for October/November time.

    • JHL on September 5, 2014 at 12:09 pm
    • Reply

    Zak, I ordered a watch and development board yesterday. Cannot wait to get them.

    What are your criteria for ordereing a batch? Some critical point? If so, can you keep us posted on the progress to that point?

    Thanks, JHL

    1. I need at least 20 orders, but no more than 50-ish. I’ve got the minimum amount now so I’ll probably stop accepting orders next Wednesday. This blog post and my twitter will be updated as progress is made on the batch.

    • Woozer on September 9, 2014 at 7:30 pm
    • Reply

    Got te kit 😉 have tot do a wire though, a pad on the PCB came loose while tinning the pads of one of the resister Networks… Will look at the schematic later 😉

    1. Gah D: You might get lucky though, only 3 resistors in each network are being used.

        • W. Zwiers on September 10, 2014 at 10:18 am
        • Reply

        Hmm, it’s RN2, top row, second from the left, got no eagle here, so can’t check, will check this evening 😉

    • Andrew Hannay on September 14, 2014 at 9:29 pm
    • Reply

    Nice bit of kit. I’d actually already ordered the same display myself and was working out how to squeeze a PIC uC on the back of it and make it into a watch and I came across your web site. Saves me a lot of bother. Any luck in finding an LCD display for this as it will draw way less power and the display can be always on.

    1. Heya, I had a look around for LCDs and I did come across a few that might have worked, but most were too big, thick, slow response time (blurry animations), low resolution/pixel density or required external drive circuitry etc. The OLED display had all of the things I wanted apart from power consumption and only needs a few external capacitors and resistors. The resolution was also just right for fitting the frame buffer in RAM.

  1. […] in September we saw this awesomesauce wristwatch. Well, [Zak] is now kitting it up. Learn more about the current version, or order one. [Thanks […]

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